The world of luxury would not be complete without an appreciation for jewellery. For so long, the industry has pushed the boundaries of artistry and craftsmanship, with pieces becoming cultural icons or signifiers of immense status. But beyond its adoration, high-end jewellery has become a powerful medium for storytelling — allowing artisans to explore the limits of creativity, bringing fantastical visions to life.
Central to this creative evolution is the development of signature icons and techniques by some of the world’s most prestigious jewellery houses. Whether it is Van Cleef & Arpels’ fairy-tale creatures or Buccellati’s “rigato” gold, these motifs have not only become recognisable symbols of their respective brands, but also integral parts of the narrative woven into each collection. The lasting allure of these jewellery pieces lies both in their status as coveted treasures and in their ability to evoke elegance and fantasy.
Van Cleef & Arpels Treasure Island
Inspired by Robert Louis Stevenson’s classic adventure novel, Treasure Island, Van Cleef & Arpels’ latest High Jewellery collection embarks on a thrilling journey, reimagining the iconic story through breathtaking designs and masterful craftsmanship. The collection — split into three “chapters” — draws from the novel’s journey across the sea, colourful characters, and search for hidden treasures.
The En haute mer Transformable Necklace and Ring draws inspiration from nautical navigation. The necklace features intricately braided yellow and white gold, mimicking the three-dimensional appearance of ropes used aboard a ship. Varying knots — sheet bends, carrick bends, reef knots, and clove hitches — are replicated through precious metals, making up the collar of the necklace. At the centre of the piece lies a 55.34-carat emerald-cut blue sapphire, nestled within the braided structure. This captivating gemstone can be detached, transforming the necklace into a solitaire ring.
In the second chapter, Van Cleef & Arpels explores the vivid landscapes of the so-called island. The Coquilles Mystérieuses Bracelet uses decorative elements from the Rococo era of architecture and design. Flowing lines and three-dimensional shapes are blended together to replicate the curves of seashells found along the island’s shore, finished with scalloped white gold edges. Using their patented Traditional Mystery Set technique, the Maison’s artisans were able to create the illusion of rows of gems held together by themselves, as though no metal structure exists beneath.
For the finale, the jewellery house focuses on the novel’s central treasure hunt plot point and its references to South America. In particular, the Roi d’Uxmal, Gardien de Palenque, and Danseur de Tikal pieces are a trio of clips that utilise Mayan iconography. Each figure features a rose-cut diamond face — a favourite technique of Van Cleef & Arpels since their signature fairies collection was created in the 1940s. Grand headdresses adorn the metal Mayan figures, decorated with a mix of baguette and pear-shaped of blue and pink sapphires.
Dior Diorama & Diorgami
Romantic imagery has long been associated with the house of Dior, with its iconic Toile de Jouy pattern embellishing many of their collections. The latest iteration of this is its haute joaillerie collection, Diorama & Diorgami. In it, Dior introduces an idyllic, whimsical forest, filled with figures of woodland creatures carved from gemstones.
The standout piece in the first chapter of Diorama & Diorgami is the Forêt Enchantée — a tableau of squirrels, swans, deers, and rabbits carved from chrysoprase, intertwined into a necklace of tsavorite garnets, diamonds, and a 16.16-carat Colombian emerald.
Another distinct feature of this dual-themed collection is its ode to pleating techniques, reflected on the jewellery pieces in origami-shaped flowers. To evoke the bright foliage of forest landscapes, a mix of white, pink and yellow gold are used to set rubies, emeralds, pink sapphires, and red spinels. The resulting design is a blooming bouquet of multi-coloured flowers on a necklace, ring, earrings, and ear cuff.
Dior’s second chapter in its high jewellery collection extends the visual narrative of nature through more stunning pieces. A yellow gold swan takes centre stage on a necklace, ring, and earrings. The graceful features are studded with diamonds, floating atop a mother-of-pearl pond or resting against a brilliant blue sapphire.
READ MORE: Making Waves: Pharrell Williams and Tiffany & Co. Unite Again
Bulgari Aeterna
In celebration of its 140th anniversary, Bulgari has unveiled the Aeterna collection, an extraordinary testament to the brand’s legacy and visionary spirit. Drawing inspiration from Rome — the Eternal City — the collection blends the past, present, and future with a series of breathtaking high jewellery pieces that demonstrate the house’s mastery of jewellery design and watchmaking.
The centrepiece of the collection is the Serpenti Aeterna necklace, which calls to mind Bulgari’s signature Serpenti motif. This masterpiece features a remarkable 140 carats of D-flawless diamonds, with seven pear-shaped diamonds cut from a 200-carat rough diamond. From there, the diamonds are set in a flexible, sinuous platinum structure that mimics the motion of a snake, further enhanced by 698 baguette diamonds.
The Sapphire Brocade necklace, crafted with 63.48 carats of diamonds and sapphires, further exemplifies the brand’s commitment to impeccable craftsmanship. Taking two years to assemble the precious stones, this piece features 13 cushion-cut sapphires and buff-top emeralds — so extravagant in its design that it almost resembles a bejeweled lace collar more so than a necklace. Matching earrings complement the piece with sapphires, emeralds, and diamonds, showcasing Bulgari’s signature colour combinations.
Tiffany & Co. Blue Book 2024: Tiffany Céleste
Tiffany & Co.’s annual high jewellery collection returns with a new cosmic theme. The 2024 Tiffany Blue Book Collection is named Tiffany Céleste, in tribute of the House’s legendary jewellery designed Jean Schlumberger, and his fascination with the world’s mysteries. For Tiffany Céleste, the collection looks to Schlumberger’s archival designs, reinterpreting them into four themes: Owl on a Rock, Phoenix, Unicorn, and Star Burst.
With mystical creatures abound, the Phoenix collection remains a fiery standout. The phoenix’s association with flames and rebirth are translated into two signature pieces: a brooch and a ring, each featuring a radiant fire opal. The brooch showcases a remarkable 29-carat fire opal, accented with Umba sapphires, tsavorites, and diamonds, while the ring highlights a 9-carat fire opal, framed by these same dazzling gemstones. This segment also features a stunning necklace, inspired by the vibrancy and shape of phoenix wings rising from the ashes. Crafted over 1,400 hours, the necklace is set with 17 cushion-cut reubellites, totalling more than 73 carats.
Schlumberger’s intrigue with mythical creatures is also explored through the Unicorn theme, where his iconic Crazy Twist designs are reimagined in a whimsical style. The unicorn’s spiralled horn is a particular focus in this chapter, prominently showcased on a necklace set with pink and purple sapphires, arranged in a harmonious swirl of colour. Another signature piece is the unicorn brooch, which makes use of a bicolour cushion-cut tourmaline that shifts hues ever-so-slightly as the light touches it.
Mikimoto x Chrome Hearts
Mikimoto — known for their exceptional pearl craftsmanship — has joined forces with Chrome Hearts, the avant-garde jeweller renowned for its bold, rock-inspired designs. The result is a fantastical collection that bridges the gap between timeless elegance and rebellious spirit, capturing the essence of both brands.
The collaboration showcases eleven fine jewellery pieces, including an edgy safety-pin brooch and heart-shaped pearl drop earrings, fusing Chrome Hearts’ gothic motifs with the delicacy of Mikimoto’s Akoya and White South sea pearls. However, the true showstoppers are the four limited-edition bespoke necklaces. Take, for instance, the hand-crafted choker that perfectly balances the punk aesthetic with refined pearl touches. A chain of Chrome Hearts’ signature cross creates the choker’s lattice, studded with diamonds and set with a cultured pearl in the middle.
READ MORE: The Enduring Appeal of Italian Gold
Chopard Contes de Fées
Since 1998, Chopard has been the official partner of the Cannes Film Festival, creating a tradition of celebrating the art of cinema in various forms. This year, Chopard’s artistic director Caroline Scheufele has dreamt up the Contes de Fées Red Carpet Collection. The French phrase translates to “fairytale” — a fitting theme for one of the world’s most extravagant film festivals.
In this collection, traditional elements from classic fairytales come to life in the form of whimsical jewellery pieces. Central to this theme is an enchanted forest. A majestic oak tree is alluded to in a mesmerising necklace. The piece features an intricate arrangement of vibrant sapphires, emeralds, tsavorites, demantoid garnets, and diamonds to evoke the woodsy colours and textures found in a forest. Delicate acorns hang from the corded rose gold structure, like tree branches diverging outward.
The mushroom — often a common appearance in the woods of fairytale stories — are re-interpreted in Chopard’s diamond-encrusted ring. Shades of cognac diamonds make up the mushroom cap, while its stem twines into a circle that sits perfectly on the finger. Meanwhile, pink fairies hang from emerald-studded oak leaf-shaped earrings.
The classic “Princess and the Frog” also features in this collection. The Maison’s new frog-inspired ring features two intricately designed frogs that embrace a stunning 17.71-carat rubellite, set atop a gold-crown setting. But no fairytale is complete without a sense of nostalgia. Scheufele’s favourite childhood figure — the clown — is transformed into a delightful diamond pendant. With its cheerful expression and playful costume, this piece invokes a sense of innocence and joy that comes with the fantasy genre.
FRED Colours That Shimmer Under FRED’s Sun
Known as “The Sunshine Jeweler,” FRED’s latest collection is a dazzling homage to the colours of the sun and the sea. Each colour story is a visual representation of founder Fred Samuel’s life experiences — the brand’s most popular designs are now imbued with its creator’s most cherished memories.
One such example is the Pain de Sucre collection, which embodies the essence of the French Riviera — a place deeply cherished by Fred Samuel. The limited-edition set of jewellery features two interchangeable plates crafted with fine inlays, each depicting a serene summer scene. The first plate showcases a pontoon paved with diamonds, leading out to a lapis ocean against a turquoise horizon. The second plate depicts a sandy beach shore, where yellow gold grains meets a turquoise wave sparkling with diamond foam.
As part of the FRED’s Pretty Woman collection, a lineup of sweet heart-shaped jewellery pieces, the Maxi Hypnotic Ideal Light necklace is meant to create the impression of being drenched in sunlight. The necklace is composed of four movable hearts, paved pink opal, yellow agate, orange carnelian, and red coral. Engraved with the rays of a setting sun, these hearts are reversible, revealing a diamond-paved reverse side, offering a total of 16 different combinations. Meanwhile, the necklace’s pink gold chain is adorned with seven links, each set with a gradient of yellow sapphires, orange sapphires, and rubies.
Special Mention:
Dior Galons
In celebration of haute couture, Dior Joaillerie introduces the Galons Dior collection, so named for the fabric strips that often finish off each garment. In this collection, Dior’s artistic director Victoire de Castellane transforms decorative trimmings into wearable works of art. The Galons Dior collection pays homage to these elegant adornments through four distinct variations: Milieu du Siècle, Floral, Zigzag, and Pearly Galons. Each design is carefully rendered in rose and yellow gold, with subtle touches of diamonds.
At the heart of this collection is the Galons Dior necklace, which combines all four fabric techniques and textures to create a feat of high jewellery. With four precisely braided lines of gold, each one is painstakingly assembled using invisible links, allowing the repetitive patterns to hang organically, as if actually placed on the end of Dior’s haute couture silhouettes. These braids twirl, twist, and knot, creating a captivating play of asymmetry and repetition.
For more on the latest in luxury jewellery reads, click here.
